Mountains Climbing

Tuesday, October 30, 2007

Bouldering

Bouldering can be done just about anywhere you climb. Most bouldering is done on big rocks that have fallen off of a cliff or were dumped by a glacier thousands of years ago.
Many sport and traditional climbers boulder without even knowing it. Before you can clip the first bolt on a sport route or get in that first piece of protection trad climbing, you are bouldering. So if a partner calls and cancels, you can always climb up the first part of your favorite route or even find a boulder and practice edging, smearing and traversing to perfect your technique.
Bouldering is also a great way to “ease into” the sometimes expensive sport of rock climbing because it only requires climbing shoes, a chalk bag and maybe even a bouldering specific crash pad. The commitment level is relatively low, because as a rule, you should only boulder as high as you don’t mind falling.

Thursday, October 25, 2007

Insurance dont forget about it

The primary reason for insurance is medical. Most policies cover medical evacuation cost as well as the medical bill while your in the hospital. In Peru, this might amount to a free trip on the back of a donkey and a three night stay at a clinic for treatment of amebic dysentery amounting to only $500.00. Though while climbing in Alaska a flight evacuation and a three night stay in hospital that your health care doesn't recognize could add up real quick.
Another reason to get insurance is to cover the untimely manner of airlines for baggage delays as well as cancellation insurance for the services you've contracted in country. Say your bags showed up three days late and you missed the internal flight booked by your mountaineering guide service. Your policy would cover the cost of booking a new flight.
Or say, you've booked a mountaineering trip in Bolivia through a local guide service and when you fly in to La Paz they tell you're trip is cancelled due to political unrest. Your policy would cover that loss.

Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Top roping

Without troubling you with a thesis length reply, it goes like this. The safest way to get the rope to the top of the cliff is to hike up the backside and drop it over the face. This is called top roping. This works great if the cliff is only 50-100ft tall. If the cliff is too tall, or the climber wants a greater challenge, the climber needs to lead the rope up there. This is accomplished by scaling the face of the rock using the rope for safety in case he or she should fall. As the person climbs, they clip the rope into metal links called carabineers that are attached to the rock. Once at the top, the climber attaches the rope through a secure point called an anchor and their partner then lowers them back to the ground or climbs up to meet them.
This routine of taking turns climbing is repeated numerous times to climb extremely large rock formations. This is called multi-pitch rock climbing.

Monday, October 08, 2007

Water management

The best way to keep your hydration system (ie. your Camel Back) from freezing on those cold early morning ascents, is to leave it behind. I know, you want to take it because it helps you stay hydrated. But the truth is, if it's freezing and windy, your tube is going to clog up with ice. Over the years, I've wrapped enough insulation around the tube of my platypus to insulate an aquaduct. I ended up not drinking on those early morning climbs resulting in a greater state of Dehydration. Don't get me wrong, I use my Platypus hydration system all the time and I love it, that is, when its not going to freeze.
For high altitude ascents and winter alpine routes, carry a small water bottle in the inner breast pocket of your jacket. Refill the bottle at break stops from larger water bottles in your pack.
This system has the advantage of enabling the climber to keep track of how much water they are consuming during the day. Also, before you leave camp, chug a liter of water and carry it in your belly.

Monday, October 01, 2007

Avoid over gripping holds with your hands

Avoid over gripping holds with your hands. You will quickly tire your arms out.
Use your feet like you would your hands.
Trust your feet. You can stand on your legs all day. You don’t hang with your arms all day. Too often people hang on their arms and then fall off, sailing right past a monster ledge they could have had their feet on.
Trust your belayer, and focus on climbing. If you are worried your belayer doesn’t have you, find a new belayer you can trust.
Concentrate on what is within reach. Sometimes you can use an intermediate hold (a smaller hold between secure holds) to get to a better hold.
Climb from the bottom up, not top down. Of course, if you can see the top of the route, look to see if there is a pattern working from the goal down to where you are, but when you start to climb, focus on the climbing at the bottom of the route as you climb up.
Climb in an X shape with your hips being the middle of the X. Hang with your arm straight. Your skeleton can take much more of a load than your muscles can. If the heel of your foot is hanging too far down you may notice your leg start to shake like a “sewing machine”. This is very common occurrence, simply apply more weight to your toes so your calf muscle spasm can stop.
Fear of heights is normal. Climbing is all about conquering those fears. Time will cure the fear of heights. A good trick is to look down no further than your feet to correctly place them on the best part of the hold.
Take your time. Climb like a cat does—quiet, deliberate, and precise. Picture the move, and then execute it. Use all of your limbs, not just two. The lower the angle of the climb, the more time you have, so use it. Make each move as fluid as possible.