One of the initial shocks Yellowstone delivers to first-time visitors is the presence of so many large critters—all free, wandering around. You just never know what's coming around the next bend of the Grand Loop. But some places in the park are extra special for wildlife watching, and the Lamar Valley is one of them. First of all, this is the range of the park's recently reintroduced gray wolves; there's nary a thrill comparable to seeing a pack of wild wolves socializing in a distant meadow, or perhaps even zeroing in on an elk kill. Your chances of being in the right place at the right time improve with the guidance of a park ranger, a Yellowstone Institute instructor, or a private guide, but either way the Lamar Valley's inhabitants include grizzlies, wolves, bison, pronghorns, bighorn sheep, coyotes, and eagles. Bring along a good spotting scope or pair of binoculars and head for one of several turnouts between the Tower-Roosevelt intersection and the Northeast Entrance.

Hike Mount Washburn
Picking out just one superlative hike from among Yellowstone's 1,000 miles of trail is no mean feat, but the Mount Washburn Spur Trail is a pretty safe choice. Starting from the Glacial Boulder Trailhead in the Canyon area, this trail follows along the north side of the awe-inspiring Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone on the Seven-Mile Hole Trail before climbing steeply up the east face of Mount Washburn (Hard-core hikers might consider following the Seven-Mile Hole Trail to its impressive terminus in the depths of the canyon, then powering all the way to Washburn's summit.) This hike offers an amazing breadth of high-country wildlife, midsummer wildflowers, and views. A large herd of bighorn sheep summer near the summit; yellow-bellied marmots and red foxes are also common. On a clear day, the 10,243-foot peak offers views all the way to the Gallatins, Absarokas, and Tetons, along with panoramas closer to hand. Less hardy hikers can reach Washburn via the more heavily trafficked trails that begin at Dunraven Pass and the Old Chittenden Road, both off the Tower-Lake Road.

The Yosemite Decimal System is a system for rating a rock climbs difficulty. It is used in climbing areas in North America and in some areas internationally. It is comprised of 5 classes of difficulty ranging from a flat trail, to the steepest of rock faces. Classes 1-4 are assigned for routes that generally do not need the aid of a rope for protection, while class 5 routes generally require more advanced technique and equipment. Class 5 is divided into a decimal system to be more precise ranging from 5.1-5.15 Class I Flat ground, easy walking on trail
Class II Steep trail that requires occasional use of the hands or cross country travel
Class III Steep slopes that requires scrambling with the use of hands with potential to take a short fall of 5 to 15 feet
Class IV Blocky, low angle rock climbing with the potential to take very long falls.
The question of “to use the rope or not” is usually asked and proper route finding is essential to stay on the path of least resistance. 4th class terrain is usually found in the high mountains and when approaching 5th class rock climbs
Class V 5th class climbing requires the use of rock climbing specific techniques and is further clarified by the Yosemite Decimal system below.
5.1 to 5.5 Entry level rock climbs that are not vertical and generally have large hand and foot holds
5.6 to 5.8 Entry level to moderate in difficulty. More advanced movement techniques are needed but generally most people can succeed on the climb with practice. (Low angle to vertical terrain)
5.9 to 5.10 Still considered moderate in difficulty by advanced climbers but requires precise techniques, physical training and considerable experience to succeed. (Generally vertical terrain to overhanging)
5.11 to 5.12 Advanced climbs that require dedication and many years of experience. Climbers are can only climb at this level with climbing specific training and optimal health. (Vertical terrain to overhanging)
5.13 to 5.15 The extreme end of the sport. A very small percentage of the climbing population can perform at this level.(Vertical terrain to overhanging) Note: 5.10 to 5.15 ratings are sub classified into a,b,c, and d ratings. Example: 5.10d (pronounced "five ten d"). Each letter grade represents a very noticeable increase in difficulty from the previous. A (+ or -) may be given instead of a letter grade. The YDS also rates just the hardest move on a climb. The 5th class decimal system was developed in the 1950's in Yosemite Valley, where bold climbers pushing new standards, were quickly out growing the old grades of class 1-4. In the 1960’s, 5.9 was the top end of the YDS scale and climbers establishing first ascents were responsible for giving their new climb a rating. Engaged in peer competition and limited by the rating system, first ascensionist gave every difficult climb the rating of 5.9, even if it was the equivalent of a modern 5.11. It was not until the 1970's that a consensus was reached and the YDS was deemed an open ended system and the rating of 5.10 was established. Routes that were established in that era are still rated by the original rating of 5.9 and continue to cause many unaware climbers problems.

Yellowstone National Park
In many ways, Yellowstone is the epicenter of everything that's still wild and untamed in the United States, and everything that's right and wrong about modern-day tourism.
Yellowstone is the oldest park in the U.S. park system and is its flagship. Each year, it draws 3 million visitors; by some estimates, one-third of the U.S. population will visit this place during their lifetime. They come to experience the park's restless geology; to see grizzlies, gray wolves, and herds of buffalo; to fish legendary trout streams like the Madison and the Yellowstone River. Most of all, they come to reconnect in some way with a sense of primordial America, the larger-than-life landscape that existed before railroads, highways, telephones, and a host of other technologies began to cut everything down to size.

Skinny-Ski Crane Flat
Yosemite's backcountry is one of the world's great cross-country skiing destinations, and Crane Flat — a broad meadow with miles of unbroken snow in all directions — is one of its three winter hubs. At about 6,000 feet, it requires better snow cover than the higher-elevation Tuolumne Meadows and Badger Pass areas, but when the weather's right Crane Pass offers an exceptionally diverse array of backcountry trails for all levels of skiers. Among the highlights: Tuolumne Grove, where the frozen silence of winter lends a deeper dignity to a forest of immense giant sequoias; the Crane Flat Meadow Loop, which gives a gentle roller-coaster ride that novice skiers can handle; and Crane Flat Lookout, a fire-lookout station offering up eye-popping views in every direction. Make sure to check with park rangers before you set out — winter in Yosemite is beautiful, but ruthless; the wise skier prepares accordingly.

Climb the Rock
ChiefFirst, the facts: Known universally as"El Cap," El Capitan is the largest chunk of exposed granite on earth. Comprised of two intersecting faces, it's a half-mile high and a mile wide. The rock is famously solid. And its sheer 3,000-foot face is the world's finest big-wall climbing surface — and indisputably the number-one totem of the American climbing community. Warren Harding pioneered the first route to the summit, "The Nose," in 1958; there are now some 80 established routes to the top, many of them multi-pitch monsters that demand extreme aid-climbing skills and require nights bivvied on the rock. Springtime is the best time to climb El Cap; the days are long and the weather is often perfect for weeks at a time. By June, the wall can be an inferno due to high temperatures. By September, the days are too short and the nights can be chilly. Old Camp 4 is the traditional climbers' camp, and no reservations are taken there. But as Yosemite is frequently very crowded, you might want to make advance reservations at another nearby site.

Yosemite is famous for its majestic waterfalls, most notably Bridal Veil, Vernal, and Yosemite Falls. The best time to see them is in late spring, when winter snows melt into surging runoff and a raging plunge of mist and rainbows. Bridal Veil is a quick, 1/2-mile, 20-minute jaunt up from the heart of the Yosemite Valley. It's an easy hike, and from the top there are great views of Cathedral Rock and El Capitan as well. Yosemite Falls is also an easy hike, and about the same distance. At the top, you will be able to see both Lower and Upper Yosemite Falls. Vernal Falls is much more difficult to get to, but the spectacular views — rivaling only those at Cloud's Rest — are well worth it. It's a steep, six-mile hike, but much of it is paved. Make sure to take a poncho, as the spray is tremendous and you will definitely get wet. Once you get to the bridge marking the end of the pavement, you can keep going and loop around Nevada Falls, too, using either the John Muir Trail or the Mist Trail.