Capitol Reef National Park

Capitol Reef National Park does not get nearly as many visitors as its Utah neighbors Bryce and Zion, and that is cause for celebration. This underestimated parkland is filled with vibrant colors — the Navajo referred to it as"the land of the sleeping rainbow" — and bizarre rock formations. Ancestral pueblos left behind thousand-year-old petroglyphs and more recent history has shown the park to be an ample hideout for outlaws of the Wild West.

Capitol Reef protects the Waterpocket Fold, a massive geologic stretch of uplifted, wrinkled earth that extends for more than 100 miles. The Fold reminded the first white explorers, many of whom were seafaring gents before taking the overland route, of an ocean reef. Round stones near the Fold brought to mind D.C.'s Capitol building and gave the park its improbable name.
Almost all of Capitol Reef's rock routes are found near the park's scenic drive. The rock quality varies tremendously from climb to climb, and though there are some solid routes on this entrada sandstone, much of it is loose and soft. Climbers must be aware of sandstone's unpredictable nature. Even along the best routes the rock may flake off.

Arches National Park

A wonderland of balanced rock, sandstone fingers, fins, plateaus, and canyons in colors ranging from dove-white to sunset-red characterize this land five miles north of Moab, Utah. More than 2,000 arches, the highest concentration of natural arches in the world, give the park its name. Because they are unique and fragile, the national park service has wisely declared these arches off-limits to climbers. The park's sandstone spires, towers, and walls, however, are free game.
The entrada sandstone found in Arches National Park is decent rock for climbing, and Arches offers many engaging options.
The West Face of Dark Angel on Devils Tower, established some 40 years ago, is a classic route. A very popular formation, as well as a relatively easy climb, is the squat 100-foot spire Owl Rock.

Acadia

Having the distinction of being the only national park in the northeastern United States brings Acadia a lot of visitors. They come to climb 1,532-foot Cadillac Mountain, the highest point on the Atlantic north of Rio, to bike along the 45 miles of crisscrossing carriage paths, which were originally commissioned by mogul John D. Rockefeller Jr., and to drive along Park Loop Road. In the summer Acadia can get downright crowded. Luckily there are 170 miles of opportunity for the hiker to hide in this 35,000-acre park.
Acadia is located mostly on Mount Desert Island, a curled shrimp of an island off of Maine's mid-coast. The coast is delightfully rugged and rocky. America has too few spots to climb near the sea on the East Coast, but Acadia does its best to make up for the lack of venues.