Mountains Climbing

Friday, July 28, 2006

Accident

The leader, Al (in his 30s), was climbing and was below the crux at the niche on the route. He had just placed a cam and was yanking on it to test the placement when it pulled. He lost his balance and fell farther than he should have, striking the wall and injuring his leg. He did not fall to the ground, but was hanging just above a belay ledge of a climb to the right called Youth Challenge. A nearby climber rappelled to him and gave assistance and comfort until MRS members arrived. Three local guides lowered the leader to the ledge, splinted his leg and evacuated him in a litter.
The lesson learned
Retaliation is a climb that is deceivingly difficult. It is a right-leaning dihedral rated 5.9, but is really more like 5.10. To succeed, the leader must be comfortable laybacking the dihedral and placing gear down by his knees. This time, the leader fell just below the crux and swung into the wall. Significantly, the belayer's hands were burned, which may indicate that she was not belaying properly. They were also using a lead rope less than 10mm in diameter. This rope size requires significantly more attention from the belayer than "fat" ropes, as it can slip much more easily through some belay devices.
We have seen or heard of several accidents over the past year where the belayer let the leader fall farther than desired because of the use of a "skinny" lead rope. If you are using a skinny rope, be sure to pay close attention, be familiar with your belay device's limitations, and if you are belaying, wear gloves and be prepared to quickly arrest any fall.

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