Mountains Climbing

Sunday, July 02, 2006

Mt. Kazbek region is situated in Eastern part of Central Caucasus, on Georgia territory, near to Georgian Military highway, Kazbegi village (1700 m ). This mountain region is almost independent from other mountain chain. Kazbek is volcano 5033 m high. First climbed in 1868 under the leadership of D. Freshfild.
From meteostation there are two possible routes on the top. More difficult is just up by the wide south-east slope-couloir (snow-ice) (3B difficulty). This route comes to the top. Early summer it's possible to go this slope by snow. It is about 30-35 dergree. The route comes near to rocks, to be sure of avalanche secure. In august here ice is opening and becomes more difficult to follow this way.
Second route is more classical - like screw from the left to right, turning the cone of Kazbek on 180 around. From meteostation route comes by left side on the moraine. After 1 hour turns to right to glacier. Here is easier to go near to slope of Kazbek as long as possible, but from the slopes it is possible rock falls, but in second part of summer, there are a lot of crevasses on glacier. Rope and crampons are necessary. Then rout comes to the pass between Kazbek and Spartak peak (4677 m), turn to right again and by the wide snow slope way comes to the top. This way is very easy, but a lot of crevasses, especially in August are through the way. It takes about 8-10 hour to the top and back.

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